STR33T GUY

Hi delta1 There is no offset on my double-end balls and the two balls behave very much like one ball does. There is some dampening so the rebound is slowed a little but not very much. I actually went back to just one ball and sold the other, I don’t miss it

This statement is more of an off the cuff remark to add emphasis to the first statement. I’m a big believer in the KISS principle. Getting good at one stance that I can vary easily with circumstance is superior to being half good at several stances which I have trouble transitioning to in order to keep up with the changing circumstances. This all reminds me of OODA loops; http://www.mindsim.com/MindSim/Corporate/OODALoop.jpg

I’ve done the same thing with two double balls but using a canister bag sounds like a neat idea. delta1, how are the dynamics different when using a canister bag and a double end ball together as appose to using two double end balls?

I prefer the double end ball.

In my opinion you have greatly over complicated things, much to your detriment. In 10 months I could train you to be able to destroy 90% of the people out there.

I’m not sure what you mean exactly by an elbow block. But for straight punches I’m trying to have their bare knuckle fist slam into my elbow or at least my forearm. For hooks to the head I use the high triangle and for hooks and uppercuts to the body I use the low triangle. For uppercuts to the head I rely on slipping.

I have always liked the idea of a cane. But for me at my stage of life I don’t think it will be practical. I’m a hyper guy always walking fast or running, the cane would just be in my way. Now in 20 or 30 years it will probably be perfect.

I don’t have any experience fighting people with knives but I do know that #2 is unlikely to work on an unarmed assailant. So by what magic will it work on someone with a knife?

How about we limit this discussion to what each person has actually USED, in a REAL street fight. And let’s try to keep the theorizing to a minimum. I’ve had good success with the bob-n-weave on the street. I have read posts before that criticize the bob-n-weave because you might get kneed coming down. This is bull in my opinion. The bob-n-weave is too fast for someone to react to it with a knee. By the time the knee gets there, the person is out of position hitting back with their own strikes. In the ring fighters have time to get the other guys timing down so they can knee as he bobs-n-weaves, but fights on the street don’t last long enough to gauge the other persons timing, even assuming your adversary has the skill to time you. I’ve had mixed success with parrying and this is why. In the ring if you are a little early with the parry, gloved hand hits gloved hand, no problem. On the street I’ve parried some punches but some punches hit my hand. I’ve gotten bruised palms and sprained fingers this way. Having a damage hand is the same as losing a weapon. I’ve had good success with blocking on the street. Nothing is simpler than a simple block and simple is best! As complexity increases so does the failure rate. This is a universally truth that applies to everything, not just fighting. Another simple and successful technique that I’ve used on the street is back pedaling. The only problem that I have had with back pedaling on the street is the lack of room and poor footing. My last fight was at the end of a hallway, I didn’t even have the room to bob-n-weave without banging into the wall.

Just about everyone that I have fought on the street has been bigger/stronger than me. They way that I beat them was to be more skillful than they were. And well rounded so I could strike, clinch or go to the ground, whatever it took.

Hello again batman You will find lots of used gear at your local boxing club. The people there will even show you how to use it. Good luck

I’d like that but unfortunately I’m in Canada. Or is it unfortunately your In England (just joking). Good point about the snap-down. I never did use the snap-down much in wrestling so I tend to forget about it.

Muay Thai clinch (prumb) This is a double collar tie-up, both arms around the neck with the hands at the back of the head. I don’t like this clinch for two reasons, one it isn’t that hard to block the inevitable knee and two it leaves you very vulnerable to a throw/takedown. Remember that in MT the rules limit the throws that Thai boxers can use; double leg takedowns are a no-no. Free style wrestling (collar elbow tie-up) I don’t like this clinch. Although great for defending against leg takedowns, it leaves you vulnerable to upper-cuts and knees. Greco-Roman wrestling (over-under tie-up) I don’t like this clinch either. On the under-hook side you are vulnerable to hooks and elbows. And being a chest to chest position you won’t see that knee coming at your groin either. Judo The most common clinch that I have seen in Judo is a collar elbow tie-up, but different from the collar elbow tie-up seen in wrestling. This clinch only works with suitable clothing and leaves you vulnerable to strikes, especially head butts. I believe that I have developed a superior clinch for the street. It is good defensively against throws and takedowns. The only strike that you are really vulnerable to is an upper-cut to the body from only one side. And you can easily counter that with knees to his body. I call it the funky nelson since the tie-up is some what similar to a quarter-nelson. The problem that I have is I can’t test it out because I’m not training at a gym right now. If anyone is interested is testing this for me, I will PM them a description of the funky nelson. Serious inquires only please.

I was told the following by someone a while back. The Vikings made a sword that had microscopic projections along the edge of the sword. These projections would break of and be left behind in the wound. These projections being rusty would cause tetanus. I don’t know if this is the weeping blade that you are talking about, but it does sound awful.

I did a google search to look at the weapons mentioned so far and here are my first impressions. The expandable baton looks like a real winner. It’s essentially a club, so it will be easy to use. I can’t think of anything bad to say about it. I like the chain whip too. It appears to be a more versatile weapon than the expandable baton. The down side is that I’m sure it will take more skill to use it effectively. I’m somewhat skeptical about the rope dart. It seems to me that the rope dart requires even more skill than the chain whip, but the chain whip does everything better, with the exception of throwing it. Of course I’ve not used either weapon before so I could be completely wrong on this. Maybe someone who is experienced with these weapons could expand on this. As for the Law, since darn near everything is illegal here (Canada), it’s either break the law or go unarmed. At times I’d rather break the law.

I don’t know any submissions from the reverse scarf hold. Can someone enlighten me (pics would be great)? I don’t see how to effectively strike from the reverse scarf hold, what am I missing? I use the reverse scarf hold as a transitional position; - from north/south to reverse scarf hold then to mount - from side mount to reverse scarf hold then to mount. Are there any other uses?

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I’m looking for a weapon that I can use for defense on the street. This is my criteria; - It must be non lethal or at least difficult to kill someone with by accident. - It must be very reliable, so no batteries or compress gas needed to operate it. Spring loaded might be ok but it can’t be a one shot deal. - I want the weapon to be concealable. - I want it to work in conjunction with striking and grappling techniques.

Good bar fight story. Please feel free to tell more fight stories. There’s nothing like a real fight story to illustrate a martial art technique or principle. It seems to me that your personal style is more complex and varied than my personal style. I’m unable to make any further comparisons at this time. As for my martial arts training it’s as follows; boxing, kickboxing, wrestling and jujitsu. I was an amateur kick boxer and fought under modified Mauy Thai rules. Elbows weren’t allowed and neither was the spinning back fist because it often resulted in an accidental elbow. But leg kicks and knees were allowed. Of course we all train in the use of elbows because it was expected that some of us would turn professional. The wrestling that I did was Olympic free style with some Greco-Roman thrown in. My Jujitsu instructor was also cross trained in BJJ so there was a lot of ground stuff, at least 50% of our time was spent on the ground. The stance that I described is close to that of Mike Tyson’s because I fight a lot like Mike. To give you an idea of how I fight, think of Mike Tyson using a lot of elbows with a few knees and kicks throw in. And this version of Iron Mike likes to ground and pound as well. When I was a young man I had a bad attitude and I got into a lot of street fights which got me in trouble with the law. My longest sentence was six months and I got into fights there too. My motto is “Hit fast, Hit hard, Hit often”.

I voted for “Arm-wrap elbow control”. I think that a 2 on 1 or 3 on 1 arm hold would be the best, but that’s just a theory. In the past I backed off when people pulled knives on me. Except for one time, I grabbed a burning log from the fire and smashed the guy in the face with it. I was very drunk and so was he. I don’t remember the details, but I did burn his face.

I voted for focus mitts because hands and elbows are my favorite weapons, especially elbows. My favorite drill is the rope-a-dope drill.

I know Jack squat about RBSD and since Jack left town that leaves me with squat. You drew that! Well I’ll take my foot out of my mouth now. Btw it’s a better drawing than I could ever do. I now see what you’re getting at with the throat bar. I don’t like grappling with one hand as the other hand strikes. I like to be either hitting with both hands or grappling with both hands, this is just my preference. Thanks for replying back and welcome again to the forum.

Everyone is invited to this party, I’m sure Master Jules will eventually show up. To use your terminology, I see the stance that I described as a neutral posture, once the striking/grappling begins the postures can become endless. Any lull in the action should be accompanied with a return to the neutral posture (assuming it’s still in the stand up/striking phase of the fight).

I’m only going by the drawing What’s the difference?

Hello kickcatcher and welcome to KF. At the risk of being a negative ninny, the drawing shows very poor body mechanics for generating power in punches. I suppose the artist isn’t a martial artist, but then the description you gave doesn’t do much for power generating body mechanics either. I also fail to see the benefit of having your forearm against their neck while punching the head. I must be missing something, could you explain more? One last thing, leading with a right cross from an orthodox stance is risky, unless it’s meant to be a sucker punch. Even if it is a sucker punch, I’d rather use a less risky punch like a left hook. But maybe hooks don’t work well with throat bars. What’s the purpose of the throat bar again?