Liver Punch

Ringo also played Mr. Conductor, if i recall. Uncle Phil from Fresh Prince voiced Shredder on the original TMNT...ugh.

Don't let groin strike see that...he'll go into a fit of rage.

I've actually been in contact with a guy who does a lot of maglite work. He has one mod I was going to suggest to Tallgeese. He shortens the light down to the length needed to house one d-cell, and then you can put a glass-breaking cap on it. THis makes it super portable, still functional as a flashlight, but the hardened tip of the end cap gives you both glass breaking abilities and a kubotan-like weapon. He also does some cool engraving/patterns on the tube itself. Anyhow, I'll keep plugging away on this ridiculousness.

If we're attempting to study the types of attacks and the techniques employed by our attackers in a street fight, then yes - i think the fat guy and the football player are a great cross-section worth looking at. But what happens to those guys when they fall down in the middle of a fight will look different with someone educated in martial arts in the mix. I'm just not necessarily convinced that I care what happens in a fight between two people that have no idea what they're doing. For example: If, indeed an overwhelming number of people who go to the ground in a fight first, lose that fight, then I don't want to be the guy who ends up on the ground first. But if that number begins to favor the guy who lands on the ground first if he's a martial artist, that statistic is far more useful. What happens to someone who doesn't relate to me in a fight is borderline irrelevant. Most people are not martial artists. This simply means that most fight data involves people who aren't trained. Using the idea that you're more likely to lose if you hit the ground first as a hard and fast rule means that we would be advising Royce Gracie to attempt to strike with Mike Tyson. I feel that this would be bad advice. I think the rules of a fight remain to be common sense. If you're a striker, try to strike. If you're a wrestler, look for a takedown. If you're a guard-reliant grappler, get the fight to the ground no matter what. If your martial art doesn't have anything to offer you on the ground, then yes, you're better off not going there.

We're a worldly bunch, aren't we. On topic, perhaps someone should start a thread about exercises you can do without traditional workout equipment. I know there's a lot of people on here who's martial arts don't specifically train conditioning, and if they're not in a traditional gym like we are, they don't even have access to equipment in their off time.

Ahhh, bumfights. Anyhow, I think that studying fights - and what kind of fights you study - depends on what you want to know. As a martial artist and fighter, I don't care what a drunk football player and a fat old man in a wheelchair do when the fight hits the ground at the bar. That's irrelevant to me. (albeit entertaining) So, using the scientific method, we must first determine what it is we're trying to learn. Also, if we're looking to apply a traditional martial art rule of thumb to this, we've already established that we cannot have two untrained fighters. The TMA rules only apply to those in TMA.

That's gas can for those of you in America.

I think you've given away what year you were born. I'll see your three, and raise you one. 1. Van Halen 2. Beastie Boys 3. The Who 4. Rage Against the Machine

I've wondered about our durability, although I believe that the biggest issue is going to be the durability of our electrical components. The LED will fix this issue a great deal, and beyond that it's a fairly simple/durable circuit. The next weak point would be the threads of the flashlight shaft. As long as they are deep enough to prevent stripping and breaking, they should be of no concern. The final weak point is of our shaft itself. The advantage we have that wood-based clubs do not have is not just strength, but softness. The aluminum shaft of the flashlight will offer a fair amount of give to act as a shock absorber. This is particularly true near what will be the ball end of our club, which has only a spring to fill its hollow core. Further down the shaft, batteries fill the space, and that will add strength to the unit as a whole. In doing research for this project, I've found some very, very cool maglite related things that would benefit Tallgeese as an officer, and some of us as well. I'll post some of them later, but there are some pretty impressive directions this could go. As for our project, I think it's evolved to a higher level of thinking. This ball hitch business is too complicated. We've got to remember K.I.S.S. When I talk to the machinist, instead of having an adapter made, I think it's best to have a 2" ball with flashlight cap threads made. Doing that will allow it to be made from steel, aluminum, or even titanium. It also gives us one less moving part, and a smoother overall construction when the whole unit is assembled. Finally, it allows us to get it powder-coated to match a flashlight instead of being chrome. At this stage, we need to get Tallgeese involved for some specification and other details, but I think withing the next 2 weeks, I can have a working prototype of something that, in our minds at least, makes the most sense.

1 Lb. of plain gelatin powder. 1 gallon of cold water Heating device Cooling device Gently mix the two together until all the gelatin is moist. It's important to not over mix or use an electric mixer, because we don't want to introduce too much air into the process. Let the mixture refrigerate for about 3 to 5 hours. We need to melt it now, which can be done over very low heat, or by placing the container over a pan of near boiling water. We just want to turn our mixture into a pourable liquid, not cook or burn it. 110-130 degrees Fahrenheit is what we're looking for. Once again, take care not to introduce a lot of air into the mixture, we want it to be heavy and dense like a bad guy, not lite and airy like a souffle. Now comes the fun part. Hopefully you've selected a mold or two for the gel to set up in. Something with a flat bottom is preferable, and squares are probably the easiest to deal with. Make sure to line the mold with plastic wrap or coat it with a lubricant. After you pour it into the mold, you can add "extras to it" Skulls, bones, organs, veins, arteries, or anything else you'd find in a human body will do. Be creative at the local butcher shop, and make sure that whatever you add is cleaned and free of extra moisture. Once your gelatin is its mold, put it back in the fridge for around 4 or 5 days, covered and....that's it! You've now got something to test projectiles on for penetration purposes, blades on for cutting depth, and a padding for bones to test blunt force trauma. Now, back to the smash light drawing board... Also, if a mod wants to break this off and make a new thread about "smashlights, and weapon testing" or something ridiculous like that, it might be handy. We've kind of hijacked the original thread.

I can mix up the ballistics gel, so that part is no problem. As for the rest of the body...the femur, rib section, pelvis, and skull of a deer, cow, or pig would be sufficient for our purposes. Edit: I've been kicking around Freddy and Vega claws forever...it could be the next project no problem. Additional Edit: No fire??!?!?!!? Fine...

Ok, I wasn't doing anything tonight...I bought a flashlight and a 1 &7/9" ball hitch. Out problems right out of the bat are several-fold. 1) The specs of the LED are unknown. Without knowing this, I am unsure as to what voltage the LED is, and as such what it requires. This will require some testing. 2) Without knowing the voltage, I cannot determine how large of a resistor I will need in order to make this light run on 2 batteries. Perhaps it will run on 2, and perhaps I'll end up soldering resistors tonight. The testing from problem number one should address this. 3) While the shaft from the hitch will be able to fit into the end cap of the flashlight, the nut that secures it has much too large of a diameter to fit inside the flashlight tube. 4) Problem number 3 can only be solved by either: a) Making an adapter that has an outside diameter and threads that fit the maglight, and an inside diameter and threads that fit the hitch. This would allow the threaded shaft of the ball (not dirty) to be cut down and perhaps eliminate the need to run two batteries. The hitch would simply function as the endcap for the flashlight. or... b. Obtaining as small-thickness nut that will fit inside the flashlight tube and secure the ball hitch to the flashlight cap. Stay tuned! Update: Three batteries predictably make about 50% more light than two. No surprise there. The hitch shaft takes up about the same amount of space as a D-Battery, so it was looking like that was the way to go on this. However, I now think that the best way to go is to make an adapter to turn the hitch into a replacement end-cap. The tolerances and thickness of both the stock and "replacement" cap are similar, and by cutting the hitch down, I'm modifying a 5 dollar hitch, and not a 30 dollar flashlight. This will allow the light to be tuned back into a standard flashlight, and the "smash-light attachment" to be taken off or put onto another flashlight at will. So, I'm attempting to find, or barring that, machine an adapter.

I suppose since in the game M. Bison (Vega in Japan) uses mental power (hence "psycho- named" moves) in the game, but his suit does appear to be technological in nature. I suppose if right after I master the smashlight, we begin to discuss the ins and outs of producing a Bison Costume, we can do that. I do however believe that the off-topic forum might be the place. Anyhow, until that time comes, we're waiting on Tallgeese to respond with his input on my tentative design. I plan to begin work on the prototype in one week.

I think that quite literally, there is nobody from Idaho...period.

Ok, so step one is to replace the standard bulb with an LED - that will reduce the amount of power needed, and still produce more light. Instead of welding, we'd get the smallest hitch possible, and machine a hole in the end-cap of the flashlight to allow the hitch threads to pass through. Securing it to the end-cap would be easy, because the nut would be on the other side. From there, you'd just make sure that the same space as one standard battery was taken up by the hitch threads and a spring to ensure a tight fit. Because the non-lit end of the flashlight is the grounding side, the system will still work because the hitch will complete the electrical circuit by being both metal and in contact with the bare aluminum of the end cap. The end result should be...a smashlight.

I live somewhere warm and it hasn't hampered me any. Then again, I've modified my grips on my go-to throws to not require clothing The fashion in which your grips would need to be modified in order to properly execute every throw puts very ugly ideas in my head.

Oooooh...Spaceman Craig. This feels a lot more like home.

Yes, but that's not what he wanted - he wanted a flashlight with a hitch on it...a smashlight - which is what we're calling it. Edit: Also, any argument on how to make it more "legitimate" is moot. it's a big, heavy flashlight...it doesn't need improving. If someone wants to turn two of them into nunchuck...that's a reasonable cause.

I'm a big fan of judo unless you live somewhere warm. Sandals, shorts, and tank tops don't seem to lend themselves to judo in my opinion. If you're an Eskimo - it's pretty much a perfect art.

Only to Nightmages, Dark Wizards, Shadow Slimes, and Phantom Demons.

I like it - and Tallgeese will have to chime in, but I'm almost certain I remembered him saying something about a flashlight/hitch combo that welding troubles hampered. I'm almost certain i can do it without any sort of welding...stay tuned.

For maximum usefulness? Wrestling and BJJ. You put them on the ground, and you tap them out. It's like a one two punch with the...punch.

If everyone is involved is trained to defend, a knife could be randomly tucked into the waistband. Perhaps multiple attackers could be thrown in - perhaps a "guy with a buddy" card. I think an eye patch could make things more interesting, and an Art Jimmerson card would be fun too.

I think there's a few problems from the get-go. 1) An overwhelmingly large amount of street fights that take place do not feature a single contestant who is a martial artist. 2) An even smaller amount of fights that feature a single martial artist feature two martial artists. 3) A much smaller amount of that features two martial artists that are well versed in all areas of combat. 4) A huge amount of fights are not on tape or reported to the police. That aside, I think that the traditional martial art idea that you shouldn't go to the ground is based a combination of a lack of techniques from the ground, the use of weapons in real life, and the presence of multiple attackers. A Brazilian Jiu Jitsu practitioner or wrestler likely thinks that you shouldn't let a one-on-one fight stay on its feet. If we change that fight to three guys with sticks or knives, and it's a different story. A lot of the traditional arts are based on things that would be relevant in war, and therefore are based on a lot more factors than what you'd find with two drunk guys in a bar alley.

I think this pretty much covers it. You're protected, it's a linear motion, and speed, speed, speed. My backfists have been reduced to about two techniques. One is spinning, and the other is used directly after a lead hook to take advantage of the space (hopefully) opened up by my hook. Other than that - I throw jabs by the dozen.