What Block would you

[GATES]

What block would you use for a hook (that most people use when they dont know how to punch) punch?

and what block would you use against a proper boxing hook a nice and tight one?

[ff100]

A boxing slip block works

[Mike Flanagan]

What block would you use for a hook (that most people use when they dont know how to punch) punch?

Shuto to incoming elbow crease

or

Rising block but let it glance over rather than trying to stop it dead and allow the other hand to come up from underneath to control (ie. mawashi-uke)

and what block would you use against a proper boxing hook a nice and tight one?

Possibly same, but more likely just ease back slightly out of range.

Mike

[P.A.L]

What block would you use for a hook (that most people use when they dont know how to punch) punch?

and what block would you use against a proper boxing hook a nice and tight one?

1- i stay inside and throw my both hands out at the same time.

2- main thing is to keep the eyes open with correct gaurd and posture, and not to get sloppy with your jabs.there is no way to win a fight without getting hit.

[ps1]

I prefer to try to slip it. Not unlike you would do with a jab.

[Jiffy]

Shuto to incoming elbow crease

DO NOT do that!!

Might work on a straight punch, but definately not a swinging punch!! If you do that, the elbow stops, but the fist keeps going, ultimately stopping when it contacts your head.

If you want stop a punch coming in this manner, you need to block below the elbow.

A shuto lower down the arm, perhaps to the radial nerve might be a better option.

Another option would be an outurned Uchi-Uke (like a normal uchi-uke, but with the fingers facing away from you. This is a normal outward block for Chinese Kempo, but not Japanese Karate. It's basically a Shuto with the fist closed).

If they are throwing a right punch for example, another option would be to parry with the right (preventing the hit in the head mentioned before) and Shuto into the bicep with the left.

You could also turn into it with a normal Soto-Uke.

Another option would be to drop lower than the punch, duck under it while passing it safely over the head with a left Soto-Uke.

Another option would be to step to Angle 1 (for those not familiar with the angle system I use, that's 45 degrees right of the centre-forward) and block with either a left Shuto or extended Uchi-Uke.

If you don't want the "Traditional Blocks" you could also slip in by stepping in and jamming the arm. This is done by basically performing a left Age-Empi (rising elbow). If you step in enough, their fist will extend past you and the centre arm (much less powerful) will colide with your arm which is protecting your head. You are then in range to counter with a right Mawashi-Empi (roundhouse elbow). As an added bonus, when you do the first one, your elbow can colide with the nerve cluster in the armpit or infront of the shoulder joint.

[bushido_man96]

Trying to block below the elbow would be the best block, I think, but I would try to slip or duck, as was mentioned earlier. A nice, tight hook is going to be hard to block, because they won't give you much. Best to duck or back up, I would think. If you do attempt to block, try to move in as you do so, to remove your target (head) away from the attack.

[Mike Flanagan]

Shuto to incoming elbow crease

DO NOT do that!!

Might work on a straight punch, but definately not a swinging punch!! If you do that, the elbow stops, but the fist keeps going, ultimately stopping when it contacts your head.

If you want stop a punch coming in this manner, you need to block below the elbow.

A shuto lower down the arm, perhaps to the radial nerve might be a better option.

I suspect you misunderstand me Jiffy. Although I said shuto I did not imply the 'traditional' 45/45 degree angles of the upper and lower arm. This would indeed, as you say, get you clocked in the head. But if the angle at your own elbow is much shallower (lets say 140 rather than 90 degrees) the block will work just fine. Blocking this way has several strong points:

1. If you catch their elbow crease with your distal ulna and your elbow angle correct their punch cannot possibly swing round and hit you. All you need to do is to make sure that the distance from your distal ulna to your head is longer than the length of a forearm and a fist. Even on wildy divergently sized individuals the length of the forearm is not terribly different (so your elbow angle will require little adjustment).

2. If you miss the elbow crease slightly, because of its shape your forearm will tend to be 'funnelled' in to the elbow crease anyway, then it catches there (ie. there is no tendency for your block to slide either up or down the arm). Catch the arm anywhere else and there is a rather greater possibility of your block sliding along the arm inappropriately. That said, I'm not totally averse to catch the incoming bicep, which has an impressive effect, but the elbow crease is safer.

3. It isn't really a block, you're just striking the incoming limb. The harder the attacker punches the more it hurts him, the less inclined he is to want to punch you with that arm again.

IMO this is a far safer option than trying to block the forearm and does much more to disrupt the attack rather than just parrying one incoming blow. As for catching the incoming radial nerve, well that can be fun, but not something I'd want to rely on in the heat of battle.

Mike

[wolfen]

I had a crappy hook thrown at me today. I wasn't really expecting it so I used a quick, simple side block/grasping block. Strict grasping requires more precision and is easier to screw up; whereas, a strict side block requires a punch or sweep to prevent further attack (I don't like punching people and as an ATSA I worry about concussions).

I moved into an elbow lock from there.

Maybe not a textbook answer, but it happened.

[Shotokan-kez]

I prefer to try to slip it. Not unlike you would do with a jab.

Think i would agree with this one!