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Best escape for a hammerlock?


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What would be the best escape in this instance? Let's assume it was almost cinched in without the rear naked choke.

Anyone use one that effectively works? I am trying to figure a reversal for the move we applied in self defence class.

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What would be the best escape in this instance? Let's assume it was almost cinched in without the rear naked choke.

Anyone use one that effectively works? I am trying to figure a reversal for the move we applied in self defence class.

Well, which hammerlock are we looking at, specifically? There are several ways of applying locks which would be classified as such. Generally, though, you can roll out of it, limp-arm out of it, or grab your own arm and physically oppose the lock with strength.

Kishimoto-Di | 2014-Present | Sensei: Ulf Karlsson

Shorin-Ryu/Shinkoten Karate | 2010-Present: Yondan, Renshi | Sensei: Richard Poage (RIP), Jeff Allred (RIP)

Shuri-Ryu | 2006-2010: Sankyu | Sensei: Joey Johnston, Joe Walker (RIP)

Judo | 2007-2010: Gokyu | Sensei: Joe Walker (RIP), Ramon Rivera (RIP), Adrian Rivera

Illinois Practical Karate | International Neoclassical Karate Kobudo Society

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If it presents itself, BITE, and bite hard; most will let go, most will not...it might be worth the try, whenever all else has been tried.

:)

**Proof is on the floor!!!

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Piece of advice one: Never get caught in a hammerlock; the reality is that once it is in, it is hard to do anything about it.

Two: Standing arm-locks of all varieties have one general weakness; muscle on muscle is weak versus bone on bone. If you can force a muscle on muscle connection, that will help. Especially do not let them get hand control if you can help it; being controlled at the wrist is bad enough but you will still have a chance.

Three: The two hands on one rule; if this is how they have achieved the lock, instead of going for a chicken-wing face-lock or other form of head control, you will still be free to move your head, and will have your other arm free. To reiterate Wastelander's point; using your free arm to resist can buy valuable time. Whatever you do, do not reach around your back to resist, but around the front.; also try to reach for hair, or punch in the face if you can.

Four: Maintain a strong base, and attack their base; if they cannot topple you, or feel they are at risk of being toppled by maintaining the lock, they might voluntarily let go to go for another technique. The important thing is to move, and this to again repeat a point is where limp-arm can be a valuable tactic. Save limp-arm for when you plan to act. Also a roll out, especially if you can get your attackers leg caught up can do the trick.

However, do not try a stomp or other base sacrificing attack, it will just end badly, and keep your weight centered, until you intend to act. It will come down to finding the opportunity.

Five: Never let someone get a hammer-lock; there are no quick solutions if someone has gained that level of arm control, and your chances of failure are much higher than success even with the best advice. Now I realise I have made this point twice; but I feel it is so important it should be made twice.

R. Keith Williams

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, like the rear naked choke, I think it's hard to get out of. Assuming it's not applied by a professional I think there are ways to get out of it. Some better than others.

The two that I researched:

1) Duck down and towards the arm that is bent back while grabbing the arm that has you and strike at the elbow joint with the other arm. This assumes you can get a hold of the arm that has you.

2) Also, a duck down with vicious strikes to the head and/or body to the point that he releases your arm.

Neither are foolproof if he already has your arm locked in.

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