Guard

[White Warlock]

Anyone who has ever experienced (or applied) a thai-roundhouse kick knows full well the foolishness of having either of your arms set to defend the mid/lower body. Simply stated, the arm is no competition for the leg... although an elbow set to receive an incoming high kick is always a mean little welcome.

[cross]

I agree with what White Warlock said above. Beginners in some arts think that blocking means using your hands only.

[delta1]

Anyone who has ever experienced (or applied) a thai-roundhouse kick knows full well the foolishness of having either of your arms set to defend the mid/lower body. Simply stated, the arm is no competition for the leg...

 

I agree about not 'blocking' a hard roundhouse with the arm. I've said here many times, your primary defense is to move, and the 'block' is generally done to positon or trap him rather than stop the kick.

 

I disagree about keeping a mid check in place- it facilitates 'recieving' (as opposed to 'blocking') some kicks, gives better angle and structure to some strikes, and defends against more than just kicks. It works well against the both hands up guard, using a high attack to momentarily keep his hands up and an extremely quick and powerful low attack from point of origin with that foolish low hand.

[White Warlock]

I disagree about keeping a mid check in place- it facilitates 'recieving' (as opposed to 'blocking') some kicks, gives better angle and structure to some strikes, and defends against more than just kicks. It works well against the both hands up guard, using a high attack to momentarily keep his hands up and an extremely quick and powerful low attack from point of origin with that foolish low hand.

I don't follow. Do you have a few moments to clarify?

[SevenStar]

you can use the elbows as your mid check...

[White Warlock]

Ahh, okay. Agreed.

[delta1]

I don't follow. Do you have a few moments to clarify?

 

I'll see how far I get before I have to get back to work.

 

it facilitates 'recieving' (as opposed to 'blocking') some kicks,

 

Move away from a roundhouse kick and the high-low guard automatically forms a basket, similar to the Taiji 'energy ball'. That kick sheds power rapidly after @ 80% of its arc- I've let TKDers roundhouse kick me hard with my hands clasped behind my back to prove this point. So your 'block' should really be a trap, as long as he's willing to give it to you.

 

Front kicks and knee strikes can be dealt with by a side-step, and that low check is extremely well placed to 'block' in such a way as to turn him, forcing him to plant where you want him. If the upward knee is thrown from really close in, you simply have to invert the elbow to effect an inverted downward heel palm to the top of his leg (push down block), which will not only stop the strike but will effect his ballance.

 

gives better angle and structure to some strikes,

 

Say you want to strike his abdomen, solar plexus, or even chest in such a way as to both hurt him and stop his forward momentum. From a neutral bow (fighting stance) with the trailing hand checking mid/low, simply pivot into a forward bow as you horizontal thrust punch your selected target FROM POINT OF ORIGIN. This is very quickly deployed, powerful, and structurally sound enough to stop a large opponent with a fair ammount of momentum. If you strike to his abdomen or solar plex, make sure to keep the high check in place so you don't eat an unintentional head butt. Now, from the boxers guard, throw that punch and the elbow has to fly out somewhat. It has power, but lacks the structural integrety. Also, because of the distance it has to travel and the inversion of the arm, it takes over twice as long to deploy.

 

and defends against more than just kicks.

 

Pretty self explanatory, you can be struck in the lower body by any upper or lower extremety strikes. The check is there to deal with that possibility.

 

It works well against the both hands up guard, using a high attack to momentarily keep his hands up and an extremely quick and powerful low attack from point of origin with that foolish low hand

 

Hit him high, the guard usually rises at least a little, and the lower checking hand is perfectly positioned to take advantage of this.

 

Consider the uppercut. When thrown from the boxers guard, the hand must drop, before it can come back up under his guard. Too much time. From a low check, you can more quickly and easily accomplish this as there is no preliminary movement. Now, I know you set him up first, and can throw it when your hand is down for some reason, but I think it is evident that you have more options, or less restrictions if your glass is half empty, from a low check. Also, in reall tight, like in a clinch, the hands up position works fine. But I've pointed out elsewhere that you should adjust your guard to fit the situation. Don't limmit yourself either way.

 

Edit: (a little more time now, cleaned up some typos and a couple of statements that even I was having a little trouble following). Those are just some examples. One more is that when I strike he may be able to slip outside. I know a lot of grapplers are head hunters in the striking phase, but not many of you could resist an undefended side. It takes a little time to cover- not much, but enough for a strike. That check might be a handy thing to have there, and as my body is turning that way it flows naturally into place.

 

Regarding the uppercut, we're only talking fractions of a second longer for yours from the guard. But still, longer is longer. Also, your shoulder has to drop more, and sooner (technically, mine doesn't have to drop at all, but I have that option), which is a telegraph. Yours can be short and sweet under the right conditions, but not comeing under a guard. Shorter is shorter, and options are options. And now, with those three profound comparisons, I think I've impressed myself enough!

Edited March 24, 2004 by delta1

[delta1]

you can use the elbows as your mid check...

 

You can try. And they will work to an extent. But a coordinated, strartegically sound attack will pick that apart at long to medium range. I like to punch high, targeting one of his hands. If I get it, fine. But I really want a response, which I usually get; usually a flinch that involuntarily brings that guard up a little or a duck/evasion that brings his head in range of my hook. Again, as a grappler gets closer, I might want to have my elbows in a position to check a takedown attempt. Adjust the fight to your opponent, just don't fight his game if you don't have to.

 

Remember too that our stances and footwork are different, and designed to work with a different structure and body mechanics. I'm not saying you suck because you do it different, just that both have strengths and weaknesses, and those varry with the practitioner as well. Learning both is probably a good idea- you can't defend what you don't understand. Why do you think I'm asking you grapplers questions?

[cross]

Another question for everyone...

 

Do you parry attacks or absorb them on your arms.

 

I do a mixture of both but i prefer to parry where possible because this generally gives me more options.

[delta1]

Do you parry attacks or absorb them on your arms.

 

Whatever the situation calls for, but I'd rather parry or avoid. If I move, even something like a vertical outward block becomes more of a parry or a check, especially since I don't do this as a hard block. I bring it up and torque my arm back into a double bone block right by my face, like the boxers guard/block. I like upward elbows in close also. They can be a check, cover, parry, block, and/or strike.